Big Blind Poker Hands

Nothing seems to confuse new Texas hold 'em players more than the blinds. Let's sort it out.

1. Poker Big Blind Small Blind
2. Big Blind Poker Hands Chart

I used to play stud and draw poker with neighbors. I don't still play, but like to read about poker strategy. Would you please explain how the big blind and little blind work in hold 'em? I'm sure many of us who read LuckyDog have no idea. — Dale H., Kankakee, Ill.

Well, Dale, since I had the same question this month from John, a co-worker of mine in Moline, Ill., it's a good time to explain the blinds in hold 'em.

Think of the blinds as antes used to stimulate betting and initiate play. There's one key difference: Unlike stud and draw poker, in which every player must pay the same pre-determined ante before each deal, in hold 'em only the first two players to the left of the dealer position have to post a blind.

The dealer for each hand is designated by a round disk called a button. Except for the first betting round, the player with the dealer button gets to act last throughout the hand. On the first betting round, the two players in the blinds act after the button, then are first to act on remaining betting rounds.

In general, the best hands to play in pre-flop will be big pocket pairs (Ace-Ace being the best), big suited connectors (like Ace-King) and unsuited connectors such as a Queen of Hearts and a King.

The button moves clockwise one position for each new hand. That rotates the advantage of last action and assures that for every circuit of the button around the table, each player will pay the two blinds once. The little blind usually is half the amount of the big blind.

Here's an example:

• A good 50 big blind poker strategy involves playing a wide variety of strong hands mostly in position and then playing them very aggressively after the flop. Mid stack poker strategy involves playing your draws and top pairs very fast in particular. Keep in mind that you cannot profitably set-mine with a 50bb stack though.
• The Big Blind – An Overview. The fact that we have to invest a big blind without seeing our hole cards is a significant disadvantage. However, it does mean that we get an effective discount on any preflop cold call. For example, if we face a 3bb open-raise, we only need to invest an additional to see the flop. Closing the Action.

You're in seat five of a nine-handed $4-$8 limit hold 'em cash game and the dealer button reaches seat three. That means you are in the big blind position and must put $4 in front of you before the cards are dealt. The player to your right in seat four must post the $2 small blind.

Two down cards are then dealt to each player, starting with the small blind. On the first betting round, action starts with the player to your left in seat six, a position called 'under the gun,' meaning first to act.

From the big blind, you are last to act before the flop. If no one has raised (to $8 in this case) when the action gets back around to you, you have two options — you can check, since you're already in for the $4 bet, or you can raise to $8. Don't fold. Even a lousy 7-2 offsuit can turn into quads on a perfect flop!

If someone raises before the action gets back to you pre-flop, you have three options: fold and forfeit your $4; call the additional $4, or re-raise by betting $8 more for a total of $12.

After the flop, the betting rotation changes. The player in the small blind on your right acts first for the rest of the hand, then you. If he has folded, you're first to act each round until the hand ends.

On the next hand, the button moves to seat four. Now you're in the small blind position and must post $2 before the deal. To stay in the hand, you must match the bet amount when it's your turn ($2 more if no one raises). Or you can fold, losing your $2 small blind.

On the next hand, you get the dealer button and can see your starting hands for free until it's time to post the blinds again.

We'll tackle playing strategies from the blind positions in a future column, Dale and John, but for now here are some other things to know:

— Some card rooms play hold 'em with a 'dead' button. That means the big blind is posted by the seated player due for it, and the small blind and button are positioned accordingly, whether or not players actually are seated there to receive a hand. This gives last-action advantage to a player on consecutive hands.

— If you miss paying one or both blinds, you must post the appropriate amount when you return or sit out until the big blind position advances to you. If you post mid-circuit, you still must pay the blinds when they reach you a few hands later in that round.

— When joining a game in progress, some card rooms require that you post the big blind amount if you want to be dealt in right away. You can choose to sit out until the big blind position reaches you normally, which is a good option because you can watch a few hands risk-free and get a feel for the table's action.

— In heads-up play using two blinds, the small blind is on the button. That player acts first before the flop and last on each subsequent betting round.

E-mail your poker questions and comments to [email protected] for use in future columns. To find out more about Russ Scott and read previous LuckyDog Poker columns, visit www.creators.com or www.luckydogpoker.com.

OK, so this can be a good time to swat up on our NASH push fold ranges for when we are short stacked in tournaments, we have constructed 8 charts which show profitable shoves from all the positions on a nine-handed table…

UTG Ranges

So it’s fairly common for players with 10 Big Blinds to think that any pair is an All in, however as we can see from this chart that includes antes of 12.5% pairs 22 and 33 are actually -EV for us to move all in with.
Another big mistake are shoves from small Aces, suited or Off suit are all -EV until we get to hands as strong as A7s+ and A9o+.

Our Range: 44+ A7s+ A9o+ QJs+ KTs+ & KQo+

Biggest mistakes are players thinking hands like KT0 and QTo are shoving, from this position we want to have a solid range, even with just 10 Big Blinds.

UTG+1

This is where things already start to change a little bit with 33 now becoming a Jam, and we can start to shove some suited connectors like T9s+.

KJo is still very borderline so you could look to move in with this hand if you think players will be calling too light for example.

Our Range: 33+ A4s+ ATo+ KJo+ K9s+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s+

Next, we are going to look at how our ranges open up as we get to the Mid-Position.

MP1 (Mid Position 1)

This is where 22 starts to get a borderline shove and so too do hands like T8s and A3s.

Our Range: 22+ A3s+ ATo+ KJo+ K9s+ Q9s+ J9s+ T8s+ 98s+

Poker Big Blind Small Blind

MP2 (Mid Position 2)

This is where we can start adding in some offsuit aces and any suited Ace is a profitable move. Its when we start getting closer to the blinds, now far less players to get through we can start opening our range a little more…

Big Blind Poker Hands Chart

Our Range: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ KJ0+ K9s+ QJo+ Q9s+ J8s+ T8s+ 98s+

This is really when we start to get going, late Mid-Postion and the Cut off is where we open up and start shoving some borderline hands!

MP3 (Mid Position 3)

Hands like 22 and KTo are now much more profitable from this position and once pretty borderline suited connector Jams are now printing EV.

Our Range: 22+ A2s+ A3o+ KTo+ K9s+ QT0+ Q9s+ JT0+ J8s+ T8s+ 97s+ 87s+ 76s+

CO (Cut Off)

This is where we can really start to widen our ranges, with even hands like Q6s becoming part of our All in wagering range.

Our Range: 22+ A2o+ A2s+ K9o+ K4s+ QTo+ Q6s+ JT0+ J7s+ T7s+ 97s+ 86s+ 76s+ 65s+

The Widest of all our ranges in late position, it’s time to look at Button and Small Blind Jams.

BTN (Button)

Even hands like K5o, Q3s and 64s are going to be gamble worthy on the Button, with just two players left to get through we can push them off a huge portion of their range, as players aren’t going to call ten big blinds with any old hand, they will need a solid part of their range to want to gamble for a 20bb pot!

Our Range: 22+ A2o+ A2s+ K2o+ K2s+ Q2o+ Q2s+ J9o+ J6s+ T9o+ T6s+ 96s+ 85s+ 75s+ 64s+ 54s+

SB (Small Blind)

The last of all our possible shoving positions, we are not always just going to want to shove from this position, you can view our guide to playing from the small blind for some slightly deeper stacked play, however we are just looking at unexploitable shoves today, so our range to move all in from the SB is going to be wide, as we only have to make one player fold. Let’s take a look:

Our Range: 22+ A2o+ A2s+ K5o+ K2s+ Q9o+ Q3s+ J4o+ J2s+ T6o+ T2s+ 96o+ 93s+ 86o+ 84s+ 76o+ 74s+ 650+ 63s+ 53s+ 43s+

As you can see we are shoving a huge portion of our range here, including any high card combination of hands with a Jack in them or higher and then nearly all suited hands from 43s+, pretty much the only combinations of hands we are not going to be jamming with are offsuit combinations with low cards.

Sum Up

To sum up as you can see from working through all these ranges there is a big drop off when it comes to non-suited hands, suited hands will always have a lot more value than the offsuit combinations. A big example of this is from UTG+1 we will profitably be able to shove with A4s+ but the offsuit aces we will move in with is only ATo+. That is a huge difference, these are the subtle points of knowing your ranges, it can be a good idea to print these off and have them above your grind station.

In coming posts we are going to look up some 6 handed charts for you to refresh your knowledge with.